Sport climbing im Val di Mello.
An Eldorado for climbing enthusiasts
The Val di Mello is not only a dream destination for hikers and bouldering enthusiasts, but also a true Eldorado for sport climbers. Often overlooked due to the sheer mass of world-class bouldering, the entire valley also offers numerous well-bolted sport climbing routes. And no, we don't mean the 1,000s of multi-pitch tours that are available in the region. Above all, there are enough single-rope sport climbing tours in the region for several holidays.
The view to the end of the Valmasino valley. To the left is the Bagni Masino (some great slab areas) and to the right the famous Val di Mello.
The Sasso Remenno - The king of rocks in the Val di Mello
The Sasso Remenno is the largest and probably best-known rock in the region around the Val di Mello (Valmasino to be precise) and a real highlight for sport climbers. The largest free-standing monolith in Europe, it attracts climbers from all over the world and is infallible when you drive into the valley. The walls of the Sasso Remenno are criss-crossed by many different routes of all orientations, making every climber's heart beat faster.
The routes on Sasso Remenno are predominantly of medium difficulty and offer both beginners and experienced climbers a variety of challenges. The routes are generally well secured, which makes climbing safe and enjoyable.
Il Formagino - For Hardmover
If you want it more difficult (and a little quieter), you should go to Il Formagino. The north-facing wall, which is clearly visible from the village (perfect for the summer months), was not bolted for a long time. Thanks to a few hard-working locals, however, a first-class hard-mover area was created a few years ago with fantastic tours from 7a (mostly between 7b and 8b).
Il Formagino. North-facing, perfect granite, long, difficult tours and not far from the village. What more could you want?
Climbing conditions and season
The best conditions for sport climbing in Val di Mello and on Sasso Remenno are in the spring and summer months, when the weather is warm but not too hot. The temperatures in the region are ideal for climbing in spring and autumn, as the rocks are usually dry and have a good grip. In the hot summer months, however, it can get a little oppressive at lower altitudes, so you should favour the higher sections of the wall, which are more pleasant to climb in the morning and evening hours.
This is where the magic happens. San Martino. The starting point for all adventures in and around Val di Mello.
Conclusion
The Val di Mello and Sasso Remenno and all the surrounding areas offer sport climbers an unrivalled mix of nature, challenge and adventure. The variety of routes, ranging from easy to extremely demanding climbs, makes the valley an ideal destination for climbers of all levels. Anyone looking for a new adventure in a breathtaking setting will definitely find it in Val di Mello. The region is a true paradise for sport climbers and promises unforgettable experiences in a unique natural setting. Oh, and if you get tired of the rope, you can choose from the 1,000s of boulders that are ‘lying around’ in the area.